Best of India
We visited India for 40 days between May 15 and June 23, 2013, and got to experience this extensive country during the hot and wet seasons. Traveling from north to south, we slept 11 nights on the road, and spend a total of 131 hours in trains and 34 hours in buses. During our journey we explored different regions making stops in the towns of Varanasi, Khajuraho, Agra, Jaipur, New Delhi, Amritsar, Mangalatha Village, Udaipur, Ajanta Caves, Mumbai, Palolem, and Kochi. Every province welcomed us with their particular cuisine, landscape, people, and told their own story.
India is a country of contrasts, from spectacular ancient temples, castles, forts, or caves of magnificence architecture to chaotic, busy, unsanitary, and loud streets. This nation has many things to fall in love with and many things to be shocked at, all of which are a few steps from each other, for example: holy cows eating trash and defecating everywhere while walking freely on the streets, women always beautifully dressed, babies with black makeup around their eyes and black dots in their faces protecting them from the “evil eye,” cars and rickshaws annoyingly honking while competing against bicycles and pedestrians for any single space on the road, and men holding hands in a friendly way and spitting everywhere. This is India, the second most populated country in the world, a land with so much history, many different ecosystems, rich in culture, and various cuisines that nobody should miss the chance to discover.
Historically, the Indian subcontinent was a region of trade routes and vast empires, identified with its commercial and cultural wealth. For many centuries, the land was the setting of battles where foreign empires like the Aryan, Moorish, Portuguese, Dutch, and British have taken control. Four world religions, Hinduism, Buddhism, Jainism, and Sikhism, originated here, whereas Christianity and Islam arrived in the 1st millennium and also helped shape the region cultural diversity. Today, India is home to 18% of the world’s population crowded together in 2.5% of the world’s land mass. The Indian economy is the world’s tenth largest by nominal gross domestic product and third largest by purchasing power parity. Following market based economic reforms in 1991, India became one of the fastest growing major economies and it is considered a newly industrialized country. However, the nation continues to face the challenges of poverty, illiteracy, corruption, malnutrition, and inadequate public healthcare. The country has major environmental problems, as well as the fastest growing population on earth. Noise pollution in major cities has been measured at over 90 decibels, more than one and a half times the recognized “safe” limit. Sadly, littering is a recurrent issue all over the country, and people seem to be extremely used to throwing everything anywhere. At least 70% of the freshwater sources in India are now polluted in some way. The downstream of the Ganges for example, is a black septic river with 3000 times the acceptable limit of fecal coliform bacteria. Regardless of its level of pollution, this river continues to be a main center of life and spirituality in Varanasi. Literally everything happens in the Ganges from swimming, fishing, bathing, washing clothes, drinking water, and incineration of corpse right before letting the ashes and body remains go into the river.
India was under the domination of the British kingdom for about one hundred and fifty years, and didn’t conquer its independence until 1947. Mahatma Gandhi, an inspiration to so many other political leaders in the world, became the most important symbol of Indian’s rights and liberation. Despite his assassination on January 30, 1948, Gandhi’s non-violent approach, spirituality, and socialist’s spirit is still today a living lesson and motivation to humanity. We felt touched by many of Gandhi’s actions and messages, because he was a strong believer in human equality regardless of sex, race, socioeconomic status, or religion. In honor of Gandhi, his people, his cause, and what we hope could be a better future for India, we want to share with you one of his most beautiful quotes:
India of my Dreams
“I shall work for an India in which the poorest shall feel that it is their country, in whose making they have an effective voice, and India in which there shall be no high class and low class people; an India in which all communities shall live in perfect harmony. There can be no room in such an India for the curse of untouchability, or the curse of intoxicating drinks and drugs. Women will enjoy the same rights as men. We shall be at peace with all the rest of the world. This is the India of my dreams.”
M.K.Gandhi
Below are other great things we enjoyed about India:
Food and Drinks
Paneer Lababdar: chunks of cottage cheese cooked in traditional spices and a tomato base butter sauce
Dingdi Dolma: mushrooms cooked in cashew nuts and onion base gravy
Mango and Apple Lassi
KingFisher Beer
Fresh Lime Soda
Chicken Masala
Chicken Tandoori
Paneer Pakora: fried breaded cottage cheese
Chicken Tikka Masala
Roti: wholemeal flour bread – tortilla-like
Boondi Raita: yogurt with chickpea flour balls
Paneer Dosa: crepe-like stuffed with cheese, onions, and tomatoes served with dipping yogurt and other sauces
Palak Paneer: spinach with cheese curry
Kheer Badam: yellow rice pudding
Homemade mango chutney
Homemade Chapati: similar to roti but thinner
Pumpkin Curry
Mushroom Masala
Stuffed Bell Pepper
Pineapple Halwa: dessert
Kulfi: Indian ice cream
Goan Fish Curry
Shrimp Curry
Mint Lemon Soda
Sidus-Fratelli Port Wine
Green Almonds
Seafood Thoran: ginger garlic sauce with coconut
Appam: fluffy rice cakes
Kerala Fried Fish
Fish Mango Masala
Favorite Sights and Activities
WWOOFing in Uttrakhand Region
Entering the Ajanta Caves
Viewing the Taj Mahal
The Kamasutra Temples in Khajuraho
Walking around the Holy Tank at the Golden Temple, Amritsar
Being entertained by the Kathakali performance in Kochi
People
Raj: Varanasi local that spoke good spanish and guided us around
Hugo: from Spain, met in Varanasi
Ashim: our waiter in Varanasi
Javier: from Argentina, met in Khajuraho
Ajay: our hotel host in Khajuraho
Salil: from Delhi, met on the train to Agra
B.S. Goel: from Delhi, met on the train to Agra
Paola: from Mexico, met in Delhi
Aditya: Delhi local we met at a restaurant his family owned
Rajander (Raju): our host and owner of Binsar Valley River Camp, the farm where we WWOOFed
Tim and Petra: other WOOFers at Binsar Valley River Camp
Aby: Rajander’s son
Prakash: Rajander’s employee
Satveer: from Haldwani, met in the Haldwani bus station and traveled to Delhi on our bus
Arry: from Bengalore, met at the Delhi bus station
Mike and Hannah: from the US, met on the train to Udaipur
Mohamed: from Sudan, met on a rickshaw on our way to a Mumbai train station
C.G. Saraf and wife: from Maharashtra, met on a train to Jalgaon and gave us tips on visiting Ajanta
Ameet: from Mumbai, our CouchSurfing host in Mumbai who showed us how they party in Mumbai
Natalia: from Russia, Ameet’s girlfriend who shared with us a lot of her knowledge on Indian culture
Rahul: Ameet’s friend from Mumbai who met up with us in Goa and toured us around
Anu: Ameet’s friend from Mumbai
Ushma: Ameet’s friend from Mumbai
Chouhan: from Raipur, met on the train to Goa
Animals Viewed
Cows, lots of them!
Goats
Camel
Peacock
Rat: farm rat where we WWOOFed, Gori
Monkeys
Bats
Sheep
Chipmunks
Pigs
Native Words
Namaste = Hello/Goodbye
Dhanyabhat = Thank you
Aloo = Potato
Paneer = Cottage Cheese
Palak = Spinach
Mirch = Chili
Chaval = Rice
Bhindi = Okra