Atacama, the Most Arid Desert in the World
Many people may wonder why someone would want to go to a desert, because based on the basic idea we have of deserts, they are not more than hot, dead, and dry places where forms of life are almost extinct. The Atacama Desert is the most arid desert in the world and believe it or not, it is full of wonders that have been declared treasures of humanity. We got to settle in San Pedro de Atacama on June 5, 2015 and this ancient town became our departing point for exploring amazing places in this desert. Compared with all the different options and wonderful things to visit in the area, what we saw was little, but we truly enjoyed it!
In San Pedro de Atacama, we learned more about the customs and funeral traditions that characterize the lives of the first indigenous groups in this area until the arrival of the Spanish colonizers who dramatically modified their way of living by imposing the Catholic religion. Several mummified bodies from the natives were found in this area, many of them stolen and taken into private collections and museums. Some of these mummies used to be displayed until recently in the Museum of Gustavo Le Paige. Today, thanks to the advocacy of the indigenous community of Atacama who continue fighting to preserve the values of their culture and ancestors, these mummies have been permanently removed. We never thought how disrespectful and violating it would be to display funeral ornaments and mummified bodies of a cultural group for their members, imagine publicly displaying the corpse of a loved one. Unfortunately, every time we visit a museum, we are so excited and curious to learn that we did not think about the rights, feelings, and meaning that those exhibitions could have for members of a specific cultural group. We have to acknowledge that we are also guilty of the “Western Voyeurism” that we have been against so many times. This was a great lesson for us, a realization of how culturally insensitive we can be regardless of how much we believe we are not.
In San Pedro de Atacama, we also visited and learned about the construction of an ancient Catholic Church now in the process of restoration. The traditional way of construction was with adobe, using only natural materials available in the desert like mud, cactus, and animal skin. We were impressed by seeing the doors still functioning and rotating without nails or screws, just with the twist of wood on the floor. The roof held up with cactus beams and straps of animal skin. The paint made out of dirt and cactus crystals to increase its adherence.
Of all the beautiful places to see around San Pedro de Atacama, we visited just a few. One afternoon we took a tour to the Moon Valley, Death Valley, Salt Caves, and ending at sunset with a spectacular view point in between the Salt Mountains, Domeico Mountains, and the Andes Mountain Range. We admired the sculptures of dirt formed by the wind topped with white salt like snow and the spectacular landscapes.
On a very early morning we also visited the Tatio Geysers, at about 4,300 meters (14,108 ft) of elevation they are the highest geothermal area in the world. The smoke, boiling water, and sulfur smell coming out from the earth while the sun was just starting to appear was something special. We were literally walking on top of active volcanic land. We really liked the yellow colors of the small bush plants and the black mountains in the background in contrast with the vapors rising to the clear sky. While freezing at below zero Celsius temperatures, we decided to be brave and bathe in the warm waters of a hot spring. It was a reviving experience for our bodies. On our way out of this geothermal park we got to see native animals like the vicuña and giant coot.
El Tatio Geysers
On our last day in San Pedro de Atacama, Sal took a biking trip by himself all morning while Gisela stayed resting. After waking up at 6am to start riding by 7am to avoid the heat, Sal rode for five hours in the valley of Catarpe. The first hour of riding, before the sun warmed the desert, the weather was extremely cold, but the rest of the time was very enjoyable. Passing through several desert mountains, canyons, and crevices such as the Quebrada del Diablo made the adventure worthwhile and exciting. The surreal landscape and arid breeze played a magnificent backdrop while riding.
Biking in Catarpe Caves