Colombia

Best of Colombia

We visited Colombia in two separate occasions. The first was for two months in Cali after the devastating loss of Gisela’s brother, which we were mostly with family. The second time we were there for 53 days starting Dec 23, 2015. The first time we flew round trip from Chile. The second time, we entered overland from Tabatinga, Brazil into Leticia, Colombia, two “cities” that are really one, only separated by an imaginary border between the two nations. Our arrival to Colombia for the end of the year holidays was planned months in advance so we could spend it with family, Gisela’s father lives there and Sal’s parents visited us. Most of our time in Colombia was focused on having quality time with family and friends. The second time we entered the country, we spent one month in Cali, Gisela’s home city. We continued from there visiting Medellin, Santa Marta, Tayrona National Park, and Cartagena. During our stay, we completed a total of 45 hours traveling by bus and 2 hours 45 minutes by airplane.

Our second visit to Cali, during the holidays, coincided with the main annual celebration: La Feria de Cali, a week of party, concerts, and popular events where the happiness of the Caleños and their love for salsa music is displayed. Our days in Cali were also a delicious gastronomic experience as we visited other cities and towns in the region: Buga, Palmira, Ginebra, and La Cumbre. We traveled to Medellin on an overnight bus on January 25, 2016. This mountain city impressed us with its organization, infrastructure, and public transportation system. Their well cared, clean, and efficient metro with a little over 20 years of functioning is with reason a source of pride. Also, two cable cars have been bringing transportation to low income communities in the hills for over 8 years and a tram is about to be inaugurated. Despite so many challenging decades of violence, injustice, stigma, and social inequality, Medellin is a great example of Colombian’s tenacity, resiliency, and capacity to grow! Voluptuous sculptures made by the famous Colombian artist Fernando Botero, were donated by him to decorate the center of his city and the Museum of Antioquia. As Botero said “I fatten the people I paint to give them more sensuality, I am not interested in fat people just their fatness.” Medellin and surrounding cities like Envigado are set in gorgeous natural landscape between mountains.

In Colombia, people were very kind and willing to help, we found out they often talk about the risks we were exposed to and advised us on how to prevent robbery. After so many years of conflict and violence, fear seems to be internalized in all sectors of Colombian society. Another major consequence of all the decades of violence suffered in this country has been the high percentage of exile and migration. In 2003, it was estimated that between 4 and 5 million Colombians live outside their country, which is equivalent to 10% of the total population. We visited the Museo Casa de la Memoria (Museum House of Memory) in Medellin and understood the deep fear Colombians carry and project in their perception of the world surrounding them. The unequal distribution of the land has been and continues to be the main reason behind the army conflict in Colombia. This conflict has been negligently and intentionally unresolved by the upper class society in control of the government because they have historically benefited from maintaining conditions of economic and social inequality. Since the Spanish colonization, systematic violent events have stained the history of Colombia, in which several individuals and groups have played a decisive role. The extermination of progressive political groups and important liberal political leaders such as Jorge Eliecer Gaitan in 1948, Luis Carlos Galan in 1989, and Union Patriotica, impaired the plurality of ideas, intensifying the violence and the feelings of hopelessness amount the citizens. The foundation of the oldest guerrilla group, Fuerzas Armadas Revolucionarias de Colombia – FARC, took place in 1964. Subsequently, the growing economic influence of the narcotic trafficking starting in 1974 promoted the expansion of the guerrillas and paramilitaries (illegal army groups fighting against the guerrillas). The number of assassinations, extortion, kidnappings, and massacres of journalist, politicians, and civilians all over Colombia escalated. There were previous failed attempts of peace between the Colombian government and FARC in 1998. Under a conservative government, a peace agreement between the government and paramilitaries was attained in 2002. These last years the government and FARC have been in peace talks in Cuba, which are closer to reaching an agreement that is set for March 2016. The future holds a mixture of hope and anxiety. Although the majority of citizens have expressed an endless desire for peace, a big sector of Colombians have been negative and apprehensive about the process. Let’s hope this new chapter of the country could close the gap of social inequality and redistribute land to the people that need it.

From Medellin we headed to Santa Marta for a few nights and learned about the last days of the life of Venezuelan-born Simon Bolivar, the liberator, who fought against the Spanish colony and freed five nations: Venezuela, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru y Bolivia. Simon Bolivar died on December 17, 1830 in the Quinta de San Pedro Alejandrino, Santa Marta. Bolivar’s last words and wishes are still relevant and highly needed today: “Colombians! My last wish is the happiness of our nation. If my death contributes to the ending of the political division and the consolidation of our union, I will go down to the tomb in peace.” From Santa Marta, we traveled to Tayrona National Park. This park is part of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. Tayrona is the most visited national park in Colombia. Their gorgeous beaches, giant rocks, tropical forest, mountains, and archaeological sites made the trip worth our time, even if we had to share it with so many other national and international tourists. While there, we missed the feeling of solitude and silence most national parks in the world offer and we worried about the lack of restrictions, rules, and control to limit the number of visitors per day. The spirit of a “resort type” management style seems to have taken over Tayrona National Park. Tourism in Colombia has been growing and it is expected to increase even more with coming peace agreements between the government and the guerrilla group, FARC. If the responsible authorities do not manage the natural resources appropriately, the beauty of Colombia is condoned to disappear. 🙁

Our final destination was Cartagena, the heroic city that did not surrender to the Spanish attempt to re-colonize it. The people rather died of hunger than surrender their right to freedom. During the time of the Spanish colony, Cartagena was a very important port and center of communication with the rest of the world. From Cartagena many treasures, African slaves, and foreigners searching for a better life made their way in and out of the so called “new” continent. With the Spanish colony, the influential and repressive force of the Catholic Church also came. The inquisition in this city started in 1610 and lasted over 200 years. Cartagena also witnessed a heavy wave of Arab migration into the Colombian Caribbean in the XIX century. Cartagena is gorgeous, with its well preserved colonial architecture, the unique San Felipe Castle, and its entire walled city. Nothing compares to walking at night through its streets with the breeze of the Caribbean ocean bringing rumors from the past to your ears, we love Cartagena. 🙂

We left Colombia on a flight from Medellin to Panama City because sadly it was cheaper than traveling by boat. We will always return to Colombia as it is Gisela’s birth land and in hopes to explore it more.

Below are other great things we enjoyed about Colombia:

Food and Drinks
  • Bandeja Paisa: large plate of rice, beans, sausage, ground beef, fried eggs, plantains, avocado, and arepas

  • Cholado: flavored shaved ice with fruit and condensed milk

  • Lulo: acidic, kiwi-like fruit

  • Lulada: local drink made with pieces of lulo

  • Sancocho de Gallina: chicken soup thicken with plantains and cassava

  • Shrimp Ceviche

  • Mondongo: beef tripe soup

  • Ajiaco: thick potato soup with chicken

  • Refajo: beer mixed with a soft drink

  • Green Mango

  • Mixed Ceviche

  • Sobrebarriga: specific cow meat cut (over belly)

  • Beef Tongue in Tomato Sauce

  • Agua Panela: water with unprocessed sugar

  • Aguila Beer

  • Club Colombia Beer

  • Poker Beer

  • Arepas: corn flour flat bread (tortillas)

  • Juan Valdez Coffee

Favorite Sights and Activities
  • Reuniting with Friends and Family

  • Roaming the Colonial Streets of Cartagena

  • Enjoying the Natural Beauty of Tayrona National Park

People
  • Salvador and Carmen: from El Salvador, Sal’s parents spent the 2015 holidays in Colombia.

  • Joaquin and Reina: from El Salvador, family friends that were also traveling with Sal’s parents.

  • Leopoldo: from Colombia, Gisela’s dad who lives in Cali.

  • Jessica: from Colombia, family friend we were able meet up with in Cali.

  • Cesar and Gladys: from Colombia, Gladys is Gisela’s childhood friend that we were able to meet up in Cali.

  • Jesus David and Carolina: from Colombia, Carolina is Gisela’s childhood friend that we were able to meet up in Cali.

  • Yanela, Amparo, July, and Steven: from Colombia, Gisela’s family that we were able to get together with in Cali.

  • Andres, Glenda, and their family: from Colombia, Gisela’s family we were able to meet up with in Cali.

  • Erika: from Colombia, Gisela’s friend from university that we got together with in Cali.

  • Andres: from Colombia, Gisela’s brother’s friend who has become a friend of the family that we were able to see in Cali.

  • Chucho and Neysla: from Colombia, Gisela’s family we were able to meet up with in Cali.

  • Guillermo, Francia, and family: from Colombia, family friends we were able to get together in Cali.

  • Hernando Jose: from Colombia, Gisela’s cousin we were able to meet up with him in Cali and Ginebra.

  • Ruby, Marta, and Michelle: from Colombia and France, we met them in Nepal and were able to get together in Cali.

  • Bryan and Veronica: from USA/India and Colombia, we first met Bryan in Chile and we have been keeping in touch and we were able to see him and his girlfriend in Cali.

  • Fernando and Diana: from Colombia, family friends we were able to see in Cali.

  • Julio and Maria Eugenia: from Colombia, Maria Eugenia was Gisela’s university professor and now they have been able to grow a personal relationship, we were able to see in Cali.

  • Prieto and daughter, Maria del Sol: from Colombia, family friends we were able to see in Cali.

  • Pedro, Luisa and family (Gonzalo, Ines, Susana): from Colombia, our CouchSurfing hosts in Medellin.

  • Oscar and Encina: from Spain, met them in Medellin while visiting Parque Arvi.

  • Tatiana: from Colombia, Gisela’s friend from high school who we got to see in Santa Marta.

  • Diana: from Colombia, Tatiana’s friend who hosted us in Santa Marta.

Animals Viewed
  • Monkeys

Common Sayings
  • Berraco = Difficult or Strong

  • Bacano = Cool

  • Pena = Sorry

  • Hagale = Do it

  • Chimba = Cool

  • Chimbo = Fake

  • Regalame = Can you give me?

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