Chile

Best of Chile

We visited Chile for a total of 47 days, in two different occasions during our world trip. The first time, we entered by land through the south and enjoyed the Chilean Patagonia from February 21, 2015 until March 9, 2015. On March 1, 2015 after receiving the painful and unexpected news that Gisela’s only brother had passed away in Colombia, we decided to interrupt our trip and travel to Cali, Colombia to process our loss and be with her father. On May 9, 2015, we decided to continue our journey and flew back to Chile, entering a second time.

During our pleasant stay in Chile we explored Puerto Natales, Torres del Paine National Park, Puerto Montt, Temuco, Villarica, Pucon, Valdivia, Pelequen, Santa Cruz, Santiago, ViƱa del Mar, Valparaiso, San Pedro de Atacama, and Arica. We spent a total of 4 days traveling by ferry from Puerto Natales to Puerto Montt through the fjords, and a total of 69 hours traveling by bus across this long country. Everywhere we went, we enjoyed Chilean food and wine, the “empanadas de pino” or “cazuela de vacuno,” but without a doubt their seafood became our favorite: nothing like a “chupe de jaiba” (crab cream), a salmon ceviche, or a fresh seafood platter. Their local beers with German influence or their traditional guanaco meat are also exceptional. We devoured a famous “chorrillana” and drank a “terremoto” (earthquake) in Valparaiso, a powerful sweet cocktail that leaves anyone shaking. šŸ˜‰ We also tried a pisco sour Chilean style, which is always a reason for debate and pride between Chileans and Peruvians.

Three things really impacted our days in Chile: nature, culture, and history. We will always remember the diversity and beauty of the landscapes of this country. From South to North, Chile has a biodiversity to please and infatuate nature lovers: the high mountains and unique rock formations of the Andes, the snowy peaks with multiple active volcanoes, the fjords of the South, and the desert in the north. Make sure to read our articles about Trekking Patagonia and the Atacama Desert to learn more about the treasures this territory has to offer. People all over the country were friendly, helpful, and kind to us. We were surprised by how often we saw passionate public display of affection between young couples in Chile. Although people in this country seem generally more conservative and Catholic than in Argentina or Uruguay, the affection between “pololos” (boyfriend/girlfriend) is very open. We felt encouraged to publicly demonstrate our affection too!! We also loved and felt inspired by the cultural centers in Santiago and Valparaiso, with their fantastic architecture and expositions. In all the cities we visited, we noticed a high number of street dogs, which despite not having a home look very well fed and even wearing a sweater sometimes. We were told that people in Chile takes care of these streets dogs, which is both kind and problematic. The streets of the beautiful UNESCO heritage site of Valparaiso were full of dog excrement which makes it an obstacle course trying to have a pleasant walk through the colorful hills. We also liked learning about two of the greatest writers of Chile: Pablo Neruda and Gabriela Mistral. Visiting Pablo Neruda’s and Matilde Urrutia’s, his wife’s, three houses: La Chascona, La Sebastiana, and Isla Negra made us dream. We fell in love with Neruda’s style and decorations, where secretive, social, and bohemian spaces connect to outdoor gardens and beloved views of the ocean. Although we struggled to find coherence between the abundance and comfort of Neruda’s lifestyle with his outspoken political affiliation to the Communist Party in Chile where poverty exists, we cannot deny we wish we could one day build a house like his for ourselves. Although Gabriela Mistral was the first Latin American writer awarded the Nobel Prize in 1945, she was never as recognized before or even after her award as was Pablo Neruda in his time. As a woman that never married, who dedicated her life to writing, and smoked in public without fear, she was not well seen in a very repressive and religious country. Another top experience in Chile was our days of WWOOFing in the Central region. We volunteered with a local family at their organic farm outside a small town named Pelequen harvesting grapes, learning how to make fresh wine cider, and feeding different animals daily. While in Chile, we learned more about all the native plants and vegetables of the American continent that have been shared with the rest of the world: potatoes, beans, cocoa, tomatoes, avocados, cassava, bell peppers, peanuts, cucumber, pumpkins, vanilla, corn, custard apple, etc.

The history of this country also impacted us, since before the Spanish colonization and until now, Chile has been the scene of interesting civilizations and socio-political phenomenons. We felt inspired by the brave Mapuches who opposed the Spanish colonization for 300 years and until today, continue fighting for the restitution of their lands. Reading about the Rapanuis from Rapanui Island (Easter Island) made us dream of one day visiting this distant territory in our lifetime. The Rapanuis are a monotheistic civilization that migrated from the Polynesians islands, created their own system of physical competition for annual assignment of political power, and built amazing Moai stones in memory of their deceased that continue looking over the island to protect them. In Arica, we learned about the Chinchorros civilization that was practicing mummification techniques similar to the ones used by the Egyptians. The mummified bodies from the Chinchorro date back from 3,000 to 5,000 years before Christ. Interesting museums all over the country helped us get a better picture of Chilean culture and history. Walking through the streets and meeting and talking with locals also allowed us to have a better picture of Chile today.

September 11, 1973 was a day the citizens of Chile will never forget and continues to determine the direction of the country. The military regime leader, General Pinochet, took control of Chile. President Salvador Allende, the first socialist president democratically elected in the world was attacked inside the presidential palace and died. These were the last words of president Allende to the people of Chile on the day of the military cup: “Workers of my nation, I have faith in Chile and its destiny. Other men will overcome this gray and bitter moment where the betrayal tries to impose. Continue knowing that sooner than later the avenues where free men walk will be open to build a better society.” The official version today is that Allende committed suicide before being captured by the betraying military forces; however some people still believe he was assassinated.

Salvador Allende had made crucial changes in Chile while he was in power, which included the nationalization of the copper and a system of free education. However many quick changes in the economy as well as the sabotage to his socialist policies by the CIA and the richest families of Chile brought hunger and food shortages to the country, which created a pressure to end Allende’s ideals and government. 13 days after the military took control over the country, as a premonition of what was to come, Pablo Neruda, the poet and consul of Chile, died as well. Did he know the horrors that so many in his beloved nation were to suffer? This was the beginning of a long and tragic history of human right violations people disappeared, tortured, and massive assassinations all over the territory. Since 1974, year after year, United Nations questioned the human right violations taking place in Chile.Ā 

Salvador Allende

In 1977, the most powerful critique against Pinochet’s regime was a petition that was signed by 96 countries. Pinochet decided to hold a national election to silence the voice of the UN. Based on Pinochet’s government reports, 75% of the people who voted were in agreement with the Pinochet regime. The regime continued ruling for years and finally on October 5, 1988 during a popular election 54.71% of people voted to remove Pinochet from power. After 15 years of dictatorship, this election marked the beginning of a new democratic era in Chile. Despite all the atrocities committed during Pinochet’s dictatorship, many Chileans continue having divided opinions about his regime. It is not uncommon to find outspoken people who support Pinochet in Chile today. These supporters argue that only thanks to him Chile’s economy was saved and the country is what it is today. This may be partially true because until this day, 20 years after Pinochet, mostly left leaning governments have continued to run the country with legislation and a constitution created during his regime. While we were in Santiago, we witnessed students protesting and requesting their right to free education with sex and civil education included. Most recently issues of financial corruption within the government and contributions by big companies to political campaigns have been brought up to light. A lot of protests and journalists are requesting that these cases be properly investigated and judged. Although the Chilean government sells the strong idea to their citizens and the rest of the world that Chile’s economy and lifestyle are closer to “developed European countries,” the social policies and cost of education do not offer the same level of opportunities to all. Education in public universities is not free and the cost is very high compared to the minimum wage. Although Chile’s economy is one of the best in Latin America, this country also has the third highest gap between poor and rich in the Latin America. In Chile, about 50% of the population earns the minimum wage of $400 USD per month and 25% earn about $1000 USD. It is known that only 1% of the population own the main companies and capital of the country. The cost of living is so high and the average income so low that the majority of the people struggle. Senior citizens including government teachers receive very low pensions. We also heard that in the past many people denied their native and African roots due to being ashamed, but that now there has been a slow rise and pride in identifying their true origins. Sadly even though 80% of the population in Chile is mestizo, only 10% of those identify themselves as Mapuche. Although Chile’s stable economy image has become a recent attraction to many immigrants all over the world, there is a level of mistrust from locals towards these newcomers and the type of jobs they could occupy in the country is limited.

We love Chile and enjoyed every second of our time there. Regardless of their current political crises and social inequality, we feel grateful for the existence of democracy there. We are hopeful, like former president Allende was, in the future of a Chile where free men and women will continue walking to build a better society. šŸ™‚

Below are other great things we enjoyed about Chile:

Food and Drinks
  • Beer Natales

  • Guanaco Meat

  • Beer Austral

  • Imperial Beer

  • Salmon

  • Caldillo de Congria y Camarones: fish and shrimp soup

  • Salmon and Hake Ceviche

  • Paila de Mariscos: seafood soup

  • Chupe de Jaiba: crab cream

  • Pork Chops

  • Cazuela de Vacuno: beef casserole

  • Seafood Empanadas

  • Kuntsmann Beer

  • Empanadas de Pino: ground beef with onions

  • Quince

  • Leche Asada

  • Italiano: hot dog with guacamole and chopped tomatoes

  • Consome de Mariscos: seafood consommĆ©

  • Corvina Ceviche

  • Pisco Sour

  • Chorrillana: french fries, meat, grilled onions, and scrambled eggs

  • Terremoto: wine cider, pineapple ice cream, and grenadine liquor

  • Seafood Platter: ceviche, clams, razor clams, loco, crab, mussels, and shrimp

  • Llama Skewers

  • Sopaipilla: fried bread

Favorite Sights and Activities
  • Spending Six Stunning Days Hiking in the Amazing Landscape of Torres del Paine National Park

  • Mesmerized by the Arid, Rugged Scenery of the Atacama Desert in San Pedro de Atacama

  • Learning to Make Grape Chicha while WWOOFing in Pelequen

  • Walking Around the Hills of Valparaiso while Viewing the Colorful Bohemian City

  • Admiring the Collections and Grandeur Houses of Pablo Neruda

  • Navigating through the Patagonian Fjords on the Navimag Ferry

People
  • Leen and Mitchell: from Belgium, met during our trek in Parque Nacional Torres del Paine.

  • Bryan: from India/USA, met on the ferry to Puerto Montt.

  • Samuel, Pablo, Aika, and Snoopy: from Chile, we met them through CouchSurfing and spent a day with them.

  • Mauricio: from Chile, was very helpful in the metro in Santiago.

  • Hernan, Gina, and Geronimo: from Colombia, Gisela’s family friends from Colombia who kindly hosted us in Santiago the many times we passed through the city.

  • Eliana and Aurelio: from Chile, our CouchSurfing host in Temuco.

  • Ximena: from Chile, our WWOOFing host in Pelequen.

  • Sergio and Alicia: from Chile, Alicia is Ximena’s sister and has a house on the farm.

  • Ivan: from Chile, our CouchSurfing host in ViƱa del Mar.

  • Valentina and Constanza: from Chile, we met Valentina in Berlin and were able to meet up in Valparaiso.

  • Olga: from Colombia, Gisela’s childhood friend who we were able to get together in Santiago.

  • Sipaya: from Chile, we met during a tour in San Pedro de Atacama.

  • Alex: from Colombia, met at our hostel in San Pedro de Atacama.

  • Silvana, Ayxa, Mauricio, Max, and Emiliano: from Chile, Silvana is a friend of a friend with a beautiful family who hosted us in Arica.

  • Alexandra: from Chile, friend of a friend we met in Arica.

Animal Viewed
  • Tonina Dolphins

  • Guanaco

  • Rheas

  • Swans

  • Condors

  • Hares

  • Sea Lions

  • Cows

  • Geese

  • Goats

  • Pig

  • Sheep

  • Ducks

  • Horses

  • VicuƱas

  • Llamas

Common Sayings
  • Sipo = Yes

  • Nopo = No

  • Vacuno = Beef

  • Ave = Chicken

  • Wawa = Baby

  • Curado = Drunk

  • Cabro/a = Boy/Girl

  • Huaso = Cowboy

  • Leche Asada = Flan

  • Al Tiro = Right Away

  • Cachay = Get it?

  • Completo = Hot Dog

  • Taco = Traffic

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