Trekking the Simien Mountains
On April 16, 2014, we started a 5-day trek adventure to the Simien Mountains. Our journey began at the Park headquarters in Debark, where we arranged the trekking by paying for camping, entry, and compulsory scout fees. Visitors must be accompanied at all times by an armed scout assigned by the national park, which is knowledgeable of the area and trails. We also rented sleeping bags in Debark at a community office close to the headquarters. We each carried a backpack with approximately 10 kilograms (22 pounds) which included food for 6 meals, 3 liters of water, snacks, thermals, sleeping mats, sleeping bags, tent, first aid kit, water purification tables, and other essentials for camping. For independent travelers like us, the Simien Mountains National Park is a great getaway destination. Park fees are affordable and all arrangements can be made on the same day you wish to start hiking.
We first thought having to hike with a park scout was going to stop us from enjoying this experience but we were wrong, Zodu, our scout, became the best support we needed to make this trip possible and unforgettable. Following our travel book recommendations we planned to hike from Debark to Chenek and back in a total of 5 days. Our initial itinerary was to hike 14 km (8.7 miles) from Debark to Buyit Ras on the first day, 25 km (15.5 miles) from Buyit Ras to Geech on the second day, 20 km (12.4 miles) from Geech to Chenek on the third, and make our way back to Debark during the two last days with a night stopping in Sankaber.
Soon after we finished the park office arrangements, we were introduced to our scout Zodu, and started hiking from Debark to Buyit Ras. Zodu guided us along the way with courtesy and patience. The trail we followed is a short cut that crosses the communities living at the periphery of the national park. Although the spectacular scenery was still to come, we enjoyed the chance of getting close to the lives of the locals. We have been dreaming with this hike for months, it has been almost a year since we did our last multi-day trekking trip to Everest Base Camp in Nepal.
The first day of hiking was pleasant until a steep hill at the end of the trail slowed us down and reminded us that we have been out of the game for months. By the time we reached Buyit Ras campsite, we were tired and determined to continue the next day. The 4-hour hike was a good beginning to our goal of getting back into shape.
We had an early start on the second day and began marching by 7 am. We knew we had a long day with 25 km (15.5 miles) ahead of us but since this itinerary was recommended by our travel guide, we believed it was possible.
The first 4 hours of the day were highlighted with spectacular views and numerous families of gelada monkeys. The scenery was magnificent and dramatic. It was formed by countless volcanic eruptions taken place 40 million years ago that produced the famous pinnacles of the Simien Mountains. We were excited to be close to one of the Ethiopian endemic mammals, the gelada monkeys. These hairy monkeys possess the most complex system of communication of any non-human primate and the most sophisticated social system: the females decide who’s boss, the young males form bachelor groups, and the older males perform a kind of grandfather role looking after the young.
Gelada Monkeys
As we continued hiking, the terrain and gain of elevation intensified the challenge. The last 2 hours of the walk were characterized by what seemed as an endless sequence of hills. By the time we reached Geech campsite at about 3,600 meters of elevation (11,800 ft), we had hiked a total of 9 hours. Gisela was exhausted, her chest was hurting, and both of her feet had blisters. The toughness of the experience made her refuse to continue following the hiking itinerary recommended by the travel guide. The coming 20 km (12.4 miles) from Geech to Chenek were expected to be more challenging and she did not think it would be wise pushing her body any further.
During our entire hike at the Simien Mountains National Park, we never met any other travelers hiking such long distances and carrying their backpacks at the same time. All tourists followed a shorter trekking itinerary per day and paid mules to carry their luggage. Although Sal was feeling well and he wished to continue, we agreed to modify the plan. We decided to spend 2 nights at Geech campsite and complete a 10 km (6.2 miles) day hike to Imet Gogo on our third day. Imet Gogo located at about 3,900 meters (12,800 ft) is known as the best view point of the Simien Mountains. The scenery from there is simply spectacular, we were happy! On the way back to Geech campsite we were joined by the rain and hail. We decided to enjoy the last hours of the day warming up and playing cards inside the tent.
On the fourth day we also had an early start and began walking back by 7 am. We hiked again the 25 km (15.5 miles) from Geech to Buyit Ras but this time the variation in direction and altitude allowed us to complete it in 6 hours. During our days of trekking, we were constantly shocked by Zodu’s strength. He hiked without hesitation, water, and food. We could not believe it was humanly possible to walk so many hours under the sun without taking a sip of water. As we struggle, he sings, wears only thin plastic sandals, and his steps were always firm. We failed and slipped a few times, but he never did, his hand was always ready to lift us, praising us to continue. Like him, many other adults and children walk tirelessly along the mountains, the majority of them barefoot. We loved the little kids waving their hands and running toward us while screaming as loud as they could “hello.” We were asked many times by the children for money and even though we disliked it, witnessing the living conditions in the mountains helped us understand their situation.
During the trekking days, our communication with Zodu was based in signs and the few words in English he knew. Unfortunately, we weren’t able to succeed in learning any Amharic and our ability to speak with him was limited. However, through the days together, our bonding with Zodu grew stronger and overcame the barriers of language. Zodu was our leader, map, source of support, laughs, and friend in the mountains. By the time we reached Buyit Ras, we were all in good moods. Zodu was looking forward to arriving to Debark the next day for the Easter celebration. After 55 days of fasting, the thought of eating meat and going to an azmari bet (traditional bar) was tempting him.
On our last night trekking, we bought some korofi (local beer), in which Sal and Zodu enjoyed drinking two full cans each. Although this drink presentation did not seem appealing, in a used tomato sauce can, its fresh temperature and taste was a great surprise and the reason of many jokes and laughs between us. Local children and adolescents came to the campsite attracted by the faranji (foreigner) presence. Sal spent hours playing baseball with them, batting became a sensation in town.
Teaching Baseball to Local Children
Playing Baseball
In the morning of our fifth and last day, we hiked for 4 hours until finishing the 14 km (8.7 miles) between Buyit Ras and Debark. By the end of the trip both of our feet were full of blisters and our hearts of joy. No doubt it was a challenging and rewarding trek. We appreciate nature and the opportunity to be in contact with the community from the Simien Mountains. We had finished the hike on the same day the 55 days of fasting for Orthodox Christians was over. For the first time in our lives Easter and the commemoration of Jesus’ resurrection could be unforgettable and meaningful. After a long time without hiking, our souls and bodies came back to life and we were looking forward to finally tasting a delicious carnivorous Ethiopian meal 🙂
