Peru

Best of Peru

We visited Peru for a total of 38 days in two different occasions. First from June 10 to 26, 2015, entering by land from the south through the border of Arica, Chile – Tacna, Peru and traveling north along the coast while making stops in Arequipa, Colca Canyon, Ica, Huacachina, Lima, Trujillo, and Huanchaco before heading into Ecuador. The second time, from August 7 to 27, 2015, we entered from the north, coming from Loja, Ecuador we traveled 20 hours on 6 buses, a very long day, to cross the border and arrive at Chachapoyas, Peru.  During our second time in Peru, we visited Chachapoyas, Lima, Ayacucho, Cusco, Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu), Puno, and different islands in the Lake Titicaca. We spent a total of 139 hours traveling by bus and 7 hours by boat while we were in this country, and it was all worth it, Peru is amazing!

We treasured amazing memories from our days in this nation. We loved Arequipa, the white city with its old town built with sillar stone, their delicious food and Iberica chocolates, salsa music playing everywhere, and the friendly demeanor of their people. From Arequipa, we traveled independently to the Colca Canyon. Hiking down and up the second deepest canyon in the world was a physically challenging experience, but a very rewarding one as we got to see beautiful landscapes, small towns along the way, and camped in an oasis at the bottom. Ica and Huacachina, cities between sand dunes and an oasis we never expected to find in Peru, gave us a mesmerized sensation of being in the desert within these cities.

As a curious fact, we can tell you that all public toilets in Peru charged about 0.50 soles (about $0.15 USD) and this fee includes toilet paper and a receipt. When we asked locals who they thought the liberator of Peru’s independence was, we got mixed answers, some said San Martin, some said Simon Bolivar. But without hesitation, Peruvians know how to make the best ceviche even if they do not agree on how to write it. We saw several restaurants with titles like this: “Cebicheria” or “Sebicheria.” We love Peruvian food for its variety and spiciness, from the best ceviche to a lomo saltado, aji de gallina, papa a la guancaina, causa de pollo, causa vegetariana, causa de mariscos, cuy chactado, cuy frito, cuy al horno, rocoto relleno, carapulcra, puca picante, chifa (Chinese-Peruvian food), chicha morada o de jora, api con empanadas, their world famous pisco sour, and even their national soda, Inca Kola, Peru is probably the most exciting country to eat in South America!

Our entire time in Peru was an ethnology and anthropology lesson, which motivated many reflections, questioning, and feelings regarding how we live today. We learned about the Paracas, Nazca, Lima, Wari, Moches, Chimu, Chachapoyas, and Inca civilizations at different museums and archaeological sites. Peru is a nation with 116 languages, mostly concentrated in the amazon jungle. The country today has 2 million people that do not speak Spanish. Quechua and Aymara are the indigenous languages most spoken. Although we did not visit them, we learned and were attracted by the mystery of the geoglyphs of Nazca, strongly protected and studied for years by the German Mathematician Maria Reiche Neumann until UNESCO finally declared them a World Heritage in 1994. From Trujillo, Huanchaco, Chachapoyas, and Ayacucho we visited Huaca de la Luna, Chan Chan, Kuelap, and Wari temples, respectively. All are amazing archaeological testimonies of the magnificent Pre-Inca civilizations. From Cusco we also visited several archaeological sites of the Inca Empire, including Tipon, Moray, Saqsaywaman, Ollantaytambo, and Pisac among others. We finished our Inca trip at Machu Picchu, which was spectacular! If you would like to know more about our archeological experiences in Peru and the cheapest way, we found, to visit Machu Picchu, do not miss reading our articles.

In Cusco, we learned about Jose Gabriel Tupaq Amaru, precursor of American independence from 1780 to 1781, who was murdered in the holocaust of May 18, 1781. Although the Spanish colony killed four generations of Tupaq Amarus, it was not able to silence their rebellious yell. 40 years after the cruel assassination of Jose Gabriel Tupac Amaru in the central plaza of Cusco, the nations of Argentina, Venezuela, Colombia, and Peru proclaimed their independences. From Ayacucho, we visited Quinua and the memorial point where the last battle for South American independence and the final expulsion of the Spanish colony took place in 1824. In Ayacucho, we visited also the “Museo de la Memoria” to learn about the 20 years of violence suffered in Peru between 1980 and 2000. In July 28, 1980, Peru had their first democratic elections after 12 years of military dictatorship. The birth of PSP-SL (Sendero Luminoso) was marked by publicly burning the boxes for popular elections in Cangallo, Ayacucho in May 17, 1980. Sendero Luminoso continued developing violent attacks under the motives of a “Popular War.” In 1984, the MRTA – Revolutionary Movement Tupac Amaru – also joined the cause and ways of Sendero Luminoso in Lima. The response of the government forces was characterized by indiscriminate repression and human rights violations. It has been estimated that this dark period resulted in a total of 69,000 victims in Peru, 40% of those victims were from the province of Ayacucho and three out of four victims were Quechua speakers. Sendero Luminoso recruited youth of farming origin who had studied more than their parents and were willing to fight to improve their situation. The majority of the victims were males between the ages of 20 and 49 years old who were heads of family, business man, teachers, farmers, and students. Many children, seniors, and women also died. Most died as a result of the massacres perpetrated by the Army, Police, and Sendero Luminoso. The government forces of Peru used techniques of torture to force suspected members of Sendero Luminoso to confess. In some cases, family members of the suspects were tortured to pressure confessions. Five hundred bodies were found buried in the Army Station of Cabitos. The cremation of tortured bodies was also a common practice between 1984 and 1986 in the same station. There was plenty of evidence to conclude that illegal detentions, human rights violations, torture, and assassination took place by the hands of Peru Army officials in Huamanga. Sendero Luminoso also promoted the torture and assassination of journalist, pastors, children, and civilians. Sendero Luminoso and the Peruvian Army promoted terror amongst civilians. Sendero Luminoso violated the rights of the indigenous communities, forcing them to serve their interest as employees, raping their women, and forcing their youth into the guerrilla army. The people were trapped between two brutal forces: The Army and the Sendero Luminoso. Those who could leave left behind their houses and lands to escape the violence. Many towns in the region of Ayacucho were abandoned. In September 12, 1992, Abimael Guzman Reinoso, main leader of Sendero Luminoso, along other members in Lima were captured and marked the ending of this group. During these years of horror the family members of the disappeared victims organized themselves as ANFASEP, but regardless of their pacific acts, protest, and efforts to find their family members, in September 15, 1992 the president Alberto Fujimori accussed Mama Angelica, the founder of ANFASEP, of terrorism and ordered her arrest. Mama Angelica was forced to leave Peru and find political asylum in France. The ANFASEP throughout those years of war created and maintained places to feed orphans. And thanks to international support they created the “Museo de la Memoria” so that these atrocities will never be forgotten or repeated!

Our last stops in Peru were Puno and some of their islands in Lake Titicaca. We spent a night in Amantani Island and visited Taquile Island, as well as the floating man-made islands of Uros. We were impressed by the engineering of the Uros Islands and their traditional boat, both built with totora plants and roots. As we got closer to leave Peru we felt nostalgia, this country had shared so many wonders with us, and despite of our extensive traveling in the country, so much has been left without being seen… Peru is without a doubt a treasure for humanity, with its past, present, and their unique food it will always be a destination where we would love to go back!

Below are other great things we enjoyed about Peru:

Food and Drinks
  • Api: drink made with purple corn

  • Cheese Empanadas

  • Causa Rellena: two layers of mashed potato with meat filling

  • Pilsen Beer

  • Mote: steamed corn grains

  • Cuy Chactado: fried guinea pig

  • Rocoto relleno: stuffed bell pepper

  • Chicha de Jora: fermented purple corn drink

  • Queso Helado: cheese ice cream

  • Buñuelos: sweet fried bread with honey

  • Fried Trout

  • Alpaca meat

  • Pisco Sour

  • Colca Sour: pisco, cactus fruit, and lemon drink

  • Inka Kola

  • Kola Escocesa

  • SalchiPollo: mixed french fries, sausage, and chicken

  • Lechon: roasted pig

  • Goat Ribs

  • Papaya Ariquipeña

  • Lomo Saltado: french fries with sautéed beef and onions

  • Arroz Chaufa: Chinese-style rice

  • Sopa Seca con Carapulcra: pasta with a green sauce and beef with a red sauce

  • Chifa: Peruvian – Chinese Fusion

  • Iberica Chocolates

  • Tres Cruces Beer

  • Ceviche

  • Octopus

  • Chupe de Camarones: shrimp soup

  • Aji de Gallina: chicken in yellow spicy sauce

  • Chicha Morada: purple corn drink

  • Tres Leches Cake

  • Papa a la Huancaina: sliced potatoes in yellow sauce

  • Trujillo Beer

  • Cusqueña Beer

  • Juanes: tamales made of cassava and rice dough

  • Kumquat: small orange fruit

  • Puca Picante: pork and potatoes in a red beet and peanut sauce

  • Fried Guinea Pig

  • Qapchi: cheese cream with potatoes

  • Coca Tea

  • Mondongo: soup with mote and tripe

  • Aguaymanto o Capuli: cape gooseberry

  • Quinoa Soup

  • Choclo con Queso: corn with cheese

  • Muña Mate: tea made from a local herb

  • Pollo Broaster: roasted chicken

  • Trout

Favorite Sights and Activities
  • Admiring the Amazing Craftsmanship of Machu Picchu and other Inca Temples around Cuzco

  • Learning about the Extensive Pre-Inca Cultures in Several Sites such as Kuelap, Chan Chan, Huaca de la Luna, and Wari

  • Savoring the Large Diversity of Food in What We Believe is the Best South American Cuisine

  • Roaming the Streets and Appreciating the Beautiful Buildings in the White City of Arequipa

  • Stunned to See a Gorgeous Oasis Surrounded by Sand Dunes in Huacachina

  • Trekking the Second Largest Canyon in the World in Colca Canyon

People
  • Oscar, Pilar, Melissa, and Miguel: from Peru, family of friends who hosted and showed us around Arequipa and treated us as part of their family.

  • Javier and Teresa: from Peru, friends of friends that we were able to meet in Arequipa.

  • Ivan: from Peru, our friendly taxi driver in Ica.

  • Jorge: from Peru, our CouchSurfing host in Lima.

  • Marvin and Brittney: from the USA, Sal’s brother and sister-in-law that we were able to hang out for a couple of days in Lima.

  • Nate, Cassi, Keely, and Jackie: from the USA, Marvin’s friends that were traveling together and we were able to hang with as well in Lima.

  • Charly, Nelly, Angie, and Shania: from Peru, our CouchSurfing hosts in Trujillo.

  • Bryan: from the USA/India, originally met in Chile we were able to meet up in Huanchaco.

  • Javier and Katie: from Ecuador and the USA, met at a hostel in Huanchaco.

  • Felix: from Hungary, our CouchSurfing host in Lima.

  • Leslie: from Peru, sister of Gisela’s friend who we were able to visit in Lima.

  • Maria and her dad, Benigno: from Peru, a friend of Pilar and Oscar who hosted us in Cuzco.

  • Andre and Vera: from Brazil, met during a tour in Cuzco.

  • Pascal: from Switzerland, met hiking to Aguas Calientes.

  • Bibi: from South Korea, met hiking to Aguas Calientes.

  • Evaristo and Cecilia: from Peru, our homestay hosts in Amantani.

Animals Viewed
  • Llamas

Common Sayings
  • Grifo = Gas Station

  • Enamorado/a = Boyfriend/Girlfriend

  • Buenazo = Real Good

Native Words (Quechua)
  • Inti = Sun

  • Raymi = Party

  • Qolqa = Food Storage

  • Pachamama = Mother Earth

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