Best of Uganda
We arrived to Uganda on Feb 28, 2014 and traveled around for 13 days. We toured in buses a total of 26.5 hours around the country making stops in Kabale, Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Itambira Island in Lake Bunyonyi, and Kampala. This equatorial land and birth place to the Nile river rewarded us with unique experiences: got a glimpse from the buses of the legendary Ankole cows with their giant horns; tracked a gorilla family in the rainforest and spent fascinating minutes face to face; settled and relaxed by the scenic waters of Lake Bunyonyi, the “most beautiful lake in world” according to the BBC; took multiple adrenaline rides on a boda-boda, a motorcycle carrying one driver and two passengers, in between the hectic traffic; and had an unforgettable night life experience in Kampala with good friends, beers, music, and locals dancing in front of a bar’s mirror as if no one else was watching!
During our days in the country, we witnessed the support and sense of responsibility that characterized many African communities. Countless times we were amazed by the way in which complete strangers helped parents in the buses by holding or carrying their children. In Uganda, we also learned interesting aspects of their traditions and culture, including their marriage negotiations and dowry. In Kampala, we visited the Kasubi Tombs where the last four Buganda kings were buried. We were intrigued by the belief that people never die, they just disappear into the forest. Regardless of the significance of this UNESCO World Heritage Site, we struggled to understand why so much money is being spent on preserving the death of royalty while citizens that are alive face so many challenges and daily needs.
Uganda’s past and present have been marked by regimens of absolute power and persecution of minorities. Shortly after reaching independence from Britain in 1962, the nation suffered years of darkness under the control of Idi Amin and Obote. During these periods, the Bugandan monarchy was abolished, and restored in 1993 with no political power. The Bugandan palace became a military center of clandestine torture and extermination. We visited the chambers where an estimated 9,700 people lost their lives between the regimens of Idi Amin and Obote. Idi Amin imprisoned and killed whoever he believed supported Obote, including Acholi and Lango tribal groups. He ordered the deportation of Uganda’s Asian population and took away their properties. His regimen will always be remembered for the human right violations, ethnic persecution, executions, and ruining of Uganda’s prosperous economy. In 1979, after losing a war against Tanzania, Idi Amin left the country in exile to Saudi Arabia where he died in 2003 without facing justice for the atrocities committed. With the exile of Amin, came the returned of Obote, and he followed the same steps of destruction. Obote favored the northern tribes of Uganda, creating a regimen of absolute power where prisons began to fill, torture and executions continued until 1985 when he was overthrown.
The tragic cycle of Uganda continues. Museveni, present president of Uganda, was first elected in 1986 and now with 28 years in power will be running again in the 2015 elections. When we arrived to the country, the “Kill the Gays bill” had been passed. This terrifying policy declares homosexuality illegal, condemning them to life in prison as well as punishing any civilian who fails to report them by giving them a five year prison sentence. When we talked to some young locals about this law, they said they did not mind homosexuality and explained that this policy had been a government initiative promoted by Christian religious influence. They also explained that homosexuality is a taboo in African cultures, and the homophobia existing is based on people’s lack of understanding and education. These locals also believe that the “Kill the Gays bill” is a way the current government is using to attract older voters in their favor for the upcoming elections. International reaction against this law was received quickly and all the scholarships given to Uganda nationals for studying in the US had been cancelled.
We left Uganda with so many thoughts in our minds. This land has so much uniqueness to enjoy and such a painful political inheritance to overcome. We believe only the awareness of the way in which their history is repeating could become a changing point for their society. Just in the same way in which mountain gorillas are protected, we hope all minorities in this country could be respected and allowed to live in peace.
Below are other great things we enjoyed about Uganda:
Food and Drinks
Nile Special Beer
Ground Nut Sauce
Pumpkin
Bell Beer
Crayfish Pizza
Crayfish and Avocado
Club Pilsener
Fish Goulash
Rolex: chapatti rolled with eggs
Katogo: plantains and potatoes with meat in sauce
Posho: cooked maize flour
Favorite Sights and Activities
Trekking in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park in Search of Mountain Gorillas
Listening to the Sounds of Nature in the Romantic Lake Bunyonyi
Enjoying the Night Life in Kampala
People
Justus, Justine, Derick, Samantha: from Uganda, our Couchsurfing hosts in Kabale.
Tony and Andi: from Canada, met at the hostel in Itambira Island.
Herbert and Linda: from Kenya, our CouchSurfing hosts in Kampala.
Isaac: from Uganda, met in Kampala via CouchSurfing.
Animals Viewed
Mountain Gorillas
Many Birds
Ankole Cows
Crayfish
Catfish