Panama

Best of Panama

We visited Panama for 33 days from February 13, 2016 and our time there was memorable: filled with sun, beach, history, a great WWOOFing experience, and a mountain side village. Traveling a total of 1 hour by airplane, 1 hour by boat, and 20.5 hours by bus, we made stops at Panama City, Perro Grande Island in the San Blas Archipelago, Lago Bay a community on the Pacific side close to Santa Catalina, and Boquete. After researching all the options of entering Panama from Colombia, the cheapest way we found was a flight from Medellin to Panama City on a low-cost airline. The option of taking a boat from Cartagena or Turbo was more expensive plus the problem of having to deal with the worst sea conditions in February.

Before the Spanish arrived, the isthmus of Panama fulfilled a function as a bridge of passage between populated zones to the north and south of the continents. Europeans first encountered Panama in 1501 by Rodrigo de Bastidas. The Spanish encountered strong native resistance since the beginning of the colonization as they advocated for Panama to be a free commerce point. Even between 1821 and 1903, when Panama was part of Colombia, there was great discontent due to their centralized government which neglected the needs and projections of Panama. In February 27, 1855, Panama earned some independence from Colombia by being declared a Federal State. Eventually, this desire of independence found strength with the France and later with United States financial support to build the Panama Canal. France failed in their attempt to build the canal between 1880 and 1889, which opened the possibilities for the United States to intervene in this ambitious project. In 1903, Panama became independent from Colombia thanks to the financial interest behind the construction of the canal, which was successfully built with US investment and used for the first time in January 7, 1914. Subsequently, thanks to the protests of Panamanian students in January 9, 1964 that the fight to return the sovereignty and autonomy of the canal to Panama began. The U.S. and Panama underwent a diplomatic process to review their initial agreement which gave perpetual control of the canal to the US. In September 7, 1977, both nations signed a new agreement that allowed the US to maintain control and management of the Panama Canal until December 31, 1999. From 1990 to 1996, Gilberto Guardia Fanrega was the first Panamanian citizen to manage the canal. Another important historic fact about Panama is the military dictatorship of 21 years that the nation underwent. Manuel Antonio Noriega was the dictator until the US invaded Panama in December 20, 1989 to reestablish democracy. Noriega’s nexus with the drug trafficking were well known, during his regime human rights violations, fear, and economic crisis were the day-by-day reality of Panama.

Panama is a multicultural and multi-ethnic society with mestizos as the largest population. Immigrants from Europe, United States, China, India, Jews, and the Afro-Caribbean islands came to Panama in different times attracted by the railway construction, the California gold fever, the construction of the Panama Canal, and its commerce. Native groups such as the Kuna Yalas from the San Blas archipelago, Embera-Wounaan from Darien, and Nasos from Bocas del Toro also emerged in this melting pot. Panama is known as the middle of the world, the point of encounter for commerce between the main oceans, this special location explains the strong and recurrent fluidity and influence of immigrants in this nation.

Panama is very modern. It has several skyscrapers and a brand new metro, feeling as if we were in the US. The “Casco Antiguo” or the Old City is colorful and preserves the memory of its past, which we enjoyed walking around it. The “Panama Viejo” or Old Panama was an indigenous town that was turned into the first city founded by Europeans on the Pacific Ocean. Panama Viejo was destroyed during the attack of the pirate, Henry Morgan, in 1671. The city was eventually rebuilt where the Casco Antiguo is located today. We also visited the Panama Canal, which is an impressive engineering marvel that has been functioning over 100 years. We spent a long time looking at the boats passing through giant locks in a game of water levels. Sal was fascinated! The canal connects the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans. Between 25 and 30 ships cross it daily and each ship takes about 8 to 10 hours to pass. The system works with water levels that change thanks to the force of gravity in combination with man-made lakes. The length of the canal is 80 km (50 miles), the passage begins and ends at sea level and reaches the highest point of 26 meters (85 feet) above sea level. The canal allows the transportation of products of 144 maritime routes between 1700 ports in 160 countries around the world. The construction of new locks to expand the canal and design a different system to save water was embarked in 2007.

Panama is a multicultural country home to different ethnic communities, natives, and immigrants. Thanks to its unique geography and location, it became the belly button of the planet, the umbilical cord connecting the world markets, and brings everyone together in one pot. Why would you lose the chance to see it?!

Below are other great things we enjoyed about Panama:

Food and Drinks
  • Chicheme: corn based drink

  • Panama Beer

  • TacuTacu: various seafood in a sauce with rice and beans

  • Balboa Beer

  • Lazaro Soup: blended fish head soup with seafood

  • Mixed Ceviche

  • Conchas in Tomato Sauce: type of mollusk

  • Beef in Tomato Sauce

  • Marañon: cashew fruit

  • Typical Panamanian Dish: white rice, beans, salad, and a meat

Favorite Sights and Activities
  • Relaxing in the Isolated Turquoise Waters of Perro Grande Island in the San Blas Islands

  • Getting our Hands Dirty while WWOOFing in Lago Bay

  • Starring in Awe at the Engineering Marvel of the Miraflores Locks of the Panama Canal

  • Taking a Break from the Heat with Magnificent Views in Boquete and Parque Nacional Volcan Baru

People
  • Efrain, Edalys, and Argelis: from Panama, our CouchSurfing hosts in Panama City.

  • Ricardo and Jorge: from Nicaragua, met in Panama City while riding a local bus.

  • Chris and Sara: from Germany and Mexico, other CouchSurfers we met while staying at Efrain’s house in Panama City.

  • Orlando: from Venezela, our CouchSurfing host in Panama City.

  • Brett and Itzaris: from the USA and Panama, our WWOOF hosts in Lago Bay.

  • Jason: from the USA, he was living and helping out on the WWOOF farm in Lago Bay.

  • Johanis: from Panama, she was working in the WWOOF farm in Lago Bay.

  • Gaspar, Gaspar, and Miguel: from Panama, three friendly guys that picked us up along our hike to the Baru Volcano summit.

  • Maritza: from Costa Rica, she worked in a travel agency in Boquete and kindly shared many tips with us regarding hiking up the Baru Volcano without buying a tour.

Common Sayings
  • Fonda = Local Restaurant

  • Cartucho = Plastic Bag

  • Diablo Rojo = Old U.S. School Buses

  • Arrecho = Hard/Difficult

  • Chicha = Juice

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