Best of Bolivia
We visited Bolivia for 33 days from August 27, 2015, traveling a total of 3.5 hours by boat into Lake Titicaca and 63.25 hours by bus making stops in Copacabana, Isla del Sol, La Paz, Cochabamba, Santa Cruz, Samaipata, Sucre, Potosi, Uyuni, Uyuni Salt Falts, Eduardo Avaroa National Reserve of Andean Fauna, Tupiza, and Tarija. Bolivia is a multicultural nation of high mountains and unique landscapes with a very hard history of social injustices and territorial wars. A high percentage of people in Bolivia still speak Quechua, Aymara, Guarani, and other 33 native languages. This is a very affordable country to visit but not always the most easy to travel. We faced some challenges with local people, road conditions, and strikes but we were rewarded with many other positive and unforgettable experiences. We hope this article can give you a good idea of what we lived in Bolivia.
We entered Bolivia by bus coming from Puno, Peru into the Bolivian side of Lake Titicaca in Copacabana. Unfortunately, Bolivian immigration officers are not the best this country has to welcome you. Entering the country was an uncomfortable and expensive nightmare for us: we used our US passports to enter and exit Peru but due to visa fees we wanted to use our Latin American passports to enter Bolivia. In their lack of knowledge of international laws and the rights of citizens with dual citizenship, the Bolivian authorities denied us entry into their country with our Latin American passports because “they didn’t have Peru’s exit stamp.” Any attempt of communicating our rights to the Bolivian officials was a waste of time. We had to return to the Peru immigration office, luckily the borders are just within walking distance, explain the situation and agreed to pay $60 USD to a Peru official to stamp Gisela’s Colombian passport. Peruvian officials were also corrupted of course but they were at least polite and helpful. In the Bolivian border, Gisela was interrogated and requested several documents including her police record, yellow fever vaccination card, and hotel reservation, all because she was Colombian. Even though under the agreements of the Andean Community, Colombians should be allowed a 90-day free visa to Bolivia, the official insisted he could only grant her a 30-day visa with the right to a free extension. Sal was forced to use his US passport and pay $160 USD even though with his Salvadorian passport he had the right to enter Bolivia with a significantly less expensive visa fee. Bolivian officials do not care about international agreements and regulations; all they want is your money. The Peruvian officials could not stamp Sal’s Salvadorian passport because Salvadorians required a prearranged visa, which was part of the reason we entered Peru with our US passport. Sal was also requested several documents including pictures, online hotel booking, and copies of his passport. Throughout the entire process, Bolivian authorities acted rude, arrogant, and threatening towards us. This was a clear example of what happens when power is given to uneducated people and it was a bitter start to our days in Bolivia.
Once we overcame our immigration challenges, we traveled to Copacabana bay, enjoyed the spectacular view of it from Cerro del Calvario, and spent a few nights in the beautiful Isla del Sol. This island offers gorgeous view points and hiking areas. Although most people seem to be kind in Bolivia, particularly in the Andean region we ran into several people that were rude and arrogant. Many of them that confronted us, unfortunately, worked in tourism. When we questioned their irrational prices or their disrespectful way of treating us, we always got a sense that they did not enjoy their jobs and perceived us only as a source of money and that meeting our needs or being kind was not a priority. Their usual replies when we expressed our discontent regarding their services were “you can leave then” or “don’t take it then,” their customer service and communication skills were very poor. We wondered many times when these sad situations occurred if their negative attitude towards us was attached to the issues of race, repression, and inequality that have historically existed in the country. We do not want to be prejudice, but coincidentally all these negative encounters happened only with people which ethnicity appeared to be indigenous and we know this sector of the population in Bolivia has been segregated and abused mostly by white and foreigner colonizers. Something that made us think this way was also the fact that in cities like Santa Cruz and Tarija, where the majority of the population do not look indigenous but mestizo (mix of European and Indigenous), we did not face these uncomfortable situations. We also wonder if their negative behavior towards us was just a consequence of the growing tourists in their country or maybe a sign of cultural differences between what seems socially appropriate and what we would expect of a vendor-client relationship. Part of our theories as to why we were treated in this manner does not hold true, because we have encountered other indigenous groups in other countries that have treated nicely and respectfully. We ended up leaving Bolivia confused and without really knowing why some Bolivians treated us that way. š
On a more positive note and in honoring the title of this article, we did have many great experiences. In La Paz for example, we were impressed with the spectacular natural setting of the city between mountains and that are reached by new cable car lines. These cable cars have been functioning for 2 years already and allow people living in the peripheral neighborhoods to travel to the center of the city. While walking throughout La Paz we enjoyed seeing the traditional clothing of the women, commonly called “Cholas PaceƱas,” with their wide and long polleras (skirts), their fingers full of gold rings, and their decorative hats. We also visited the Coca Museum and learned about the history and medicinal properties of this millenary Andean plant that after the arrival of the white colonizer became satanized, processed, appropriated, and distorted to produce multimillionaire businesses, such as the legal Coca-Cola and the illegal cocaine industry. The United Nations prohibited coca in 1950 under the statement that “it causes poverty and a decrease in working capacity.” Many scientific research have proven the UN accusations to be wrong as the studies and history shows the coca leaves have innumerable medicinal properties and they have been used by the indigenous of South America for centuries to heal, adjust to high elevation, sedate patients to practice brain surgeries, for spiritual rituals, and as daily source of energy and food during long working hours. It was and continues to be the outsiders who distort and misuse this healing plant to damage themselves and others through addiction, trafficking, and crime. It is estimated that the US has 4% of the world’s population and yet they represent 50% of the cocaine consumers in the globe. “Humanity needs an intermediate to communicate with “other worlds,” this intermediate is what we call a symbol, something that has a divine category and allows the transcendence from the common level to God. In Catholicism, the wine and the communion have that category. The alcohol is the social lubricant that facilitates that interchange and strength in rituals; we use it to wish good health and happiness and to welcome a friend at home. For the Andean culture, the coca leaf is that channel, is a connection with divinity, a mediator with God and others.” (Sdenka Silva, Fragment copy from the Coca Museum).
In La Paz, we also visited the great National Museum of Etnography and Folklore and learned a lot about different indigenous groups like the Tiwanaku, Lupacas, Collas, Kallawayas, Pacajes, Carangas, Aymaras, and many others who lived in the territory before the Inca expansion in the XV century. Other museums thought us about one of the first revolutions against the Spanish colonizers. Tupac Katari and his partner Bartolina Sisa were the leaders of an indigenous revolt in the city of La Paz in 1781. Shortly after another failed movement in 1809, in which Pedro Domingo Murillo is distinguished as a martyr, Bolivia eventually attained their independence in 1825. Since 1900’s, the history of Bolivia has been marked by several wars, military dictatorships, and failed attempts of democracy. During all those years, Bolivia also lost important sections of territory that were taken by all of its neighboring countries.
Today, the issue of the expropriation of Bolivia’s land by the Pacific Ocean by Chile, who took control over the region of Antofagasta after winning the Pacific War in February 14, 1879, is under dispute by Bolivia and under investigation in international courts. Indigenous groups continue to suffer from discrimination, for example until 1950 it was prohibited for people without Spanish last names to access a higher level of education.
In 2005, Bolivia celebrated in electing the first president of indigenous ethnicity, Evo Morales, and in 2009 a new constitution was approved, the first change since 1967. The gap between rich and poor has been and still is very marked in Bolivia. The policies of President Morales have nationalized natural resources, such as gas to redistribute wealth and promote social change and welfare, although there have been progress the challenges persist. Morales has served two presidential terms, which is the limit under the revised constitution, but he is trying to change the constitution of the country again to be able to govern indefinitely. We saw images of Evo Morales everywhere we went and felt as if we were back in Jordan where the picture of the king was all over the country.
Evo’s campaign appears to be, in our opinion, a very populist one. A lot of money is being spent on keeping his face on billboards and constantly present in the eyes of all Bolivians. Many citizens seemed to be against the idea of Morales’ reelection as they perceived an increase in government corruption and narco-trafficking during his government. In Cochabamba, we witnessed an indigenous protest against the government and felt impressed by their unity and perseverance to fight for their rights even under a scorching midday sun. Two other strikes took place in the cities of La Paz and Potosi while we were in Bolivia.
Protests in Potosi
In Potosi, the people marching said “Por el MAS nunca mas” (never again for the MAS), which means they will never vote again for MAS, the political party of Evo Morales. Traveling around the country we found deep inconsistencies in the way the money has been spent, the city of La Paz for example has wonderful cable cars while the roads between Uyuni – Tupiza – Tarija are still unpaved. Why is the country developing so unevenly? Shouldn’t getting all the roads paved in the nation be a main priority? Are the needs of the people in La Paz more important than the citizens in Potosi and Tarija? To enhance the absurd of these facts, keep in mind Tarija and Potosi are regions rich in minerals and natural gas from which the country collect a lot of income.Ā
Where is the money these regions produce going? Why isn’t this money spent in their communities? We personally feel concerned about any politician’s attempt to stay in power indefinitely, refusing healthy new ideas and leaders, and converting a democratic country into a system much similar to a dictatorship. We feel suspicious about Evo Morales intentions to stay in power and hope that the people of Bolivia can make use of the democratic mechanism to preserve their right to choose new leaders and continue progressing!
We also visited Cochabamba which is known for having the second biggest Jesus Christ statue in the world and for being the gastronomic capital of Bolivia. The weather in Cochabamba was warmer than in La Paz and we had fun watching the women’s traditional skirt of the “cholas” getting shorter and shorter. All over Bolivia we noticed women with their little children selling things in the streets. We admired and felt sad by the tenacity of these women who have to take care of their infants and toddlers in the streets while earning a living. Going from the mountainous regions of La Paz and Cochabamba into Santa Cruz we felt the dramatic change in culture. The absent of the Andean population and their traditional clothing was evident. The weather was also very different, the warmth and humidity was evident at a much lower elevation. No matter the weather, one nice consistency throughout the country is the gorgeous plazas with well beautiful gardens and benches to sit on. From Samaipata, we visited a fort, El Fuerte de Samaipata, full of zoomorphic forms carved into a giant rock and the waterfalls of Cuevas with unique and interesting red stone and sand surrounding the falls. In Sucre, the white city of Bolivia and home to two-thirds of the capital (the other third is in La Paz), we learned about the independence of the country and the influential role of Venezuelan leaders like Bolivar and Sucre, heroes of South America. We also learned about the challenges suffered by minority indigenous groups like the Uru Chipaya, who not only resisted the Spanish colony and modernity, but also the attempts of the Aymaras and Incas to control them and extinguish their culture. We reached Potosi, the famous land where the Spanish stole silver from the still production Cerro Rico (Rich Hill). We then traveled to the Uyuni Salt Flat and Eduardo Avaroa Reserve of Andean Fauna in a 3-day, 2-night tour that has been one of the best tours we enjoyed in our world travels and our favorite experience in Bolivia.
After Uyuni we made a stop in Tupiza, a very mellow town with warm weather and surrounded by beautiful rock formations we contemplated during a day hike. Then our last stop, Tarija, we were pleased to visit good friends and taste the regions delicious wines which come from the highest altitude vineyards in the world. We also tasted the national cocktail, chuflay, made with lemon juice, Canada Dry, ice, and Singani, liquor made out of Moscatel de Alejandria grapes from Tarija. We really enjoyed our days in Tarija, the weather was perfect, the Cueca and Chacarera music and dances were entertaining, and the local food, such as the small fried crabs and “Chancho a la Cruz” (pork roasted on a cros), simply delicious. Bolivian markets and local food were a pleasant surprise all over the country. We did not expect to find spicy meals, until this point we have been convinced Peru and Mexico were the only countries in Latin America with a spicy cuisine, but several local dishes stole our hearts! Every lunch in Bolivia is served with a soup to start and a main dish. Eating in Bolivia was a pleasure to our mouth and budget! š
Visiting Bolivia was a great experience overall. Beyond its challenges, the natural beauty and cultural diversity of this country made it a gem for us that no one should miss!
Below are other great things we enjoyed about Bolivia:
Food and Drinks
Trout
Judas Beer
Api: hot purple corn drink
BuƱuelos: sweet fried dough
PaceƱa Beer
Huari Beer
Falso Conejo: āfalse rabbit,ā breaded beef in a red sauce
SalteƱa: oven-baked, sweet empanadas
Tucumanas: fried savory empanadas
Lomo Borracho: ādrunk beef,ā steak and egg in beer soup
Picante de Lengua: beef tongue in a spicy sauce
Pique Macho: mixed meats with potatoes
Moquechinchi: cold sweet cinnamon tea with dehydrated peach
CuƱapes: cassava bread with cheese
Picante de Pollo: chicken in spicy sauce
Sonso: grilled cassava dough and cheese
Fruit Salad with yogurt and whipped cream
ChuƱo: dehydrated potatoes
Mondongo: pork in red sauce
Saice: Beef, peas, and potatoes in a red sauce
Tojori: hot yellow corn drink
Cheese Empanadas
Maltin: malt drink
Charque: llama meat
Asado de Olla: meat cooked in a pot in spicy sauce
Singani: grape liquor
Chuflay: cocktail with singani, clear soda, and lemon
Ranga: tripe
Bolivian Wines
Sweet Morcilla: walnuts, pig blood, and rice
Small Crabs
Chancho a la Cruz: pork cooked on an open fire
Flax Seed Juice
Favorite Sights and Activities
Admiring the Surreal Natural Beauty of the Uyuni Salt Flat and the Eduardo Avaroa National Reserve of Andean Fauna
Savoring all the Surprisingly Good Bolivian Food and Wines
Sitting in any Bolivian City Plaza to People-Watch
Getting a Birdās Eye View from a Cable Car of the Beautiful Setting of La Paz
People
Aldo: from Bolivia, Sal’s friend from Los Angeles who invited us to stay at his apartment in La Paz and were able to briefly meet up there. But later we went to his hometown, Tarija, and stayed with him and his family for a few days.
Guillermo: from El Salvador, family friend we were able to meet up in La Paz.
Alejandro: from Venezuela, our CouchSurfing host in Santa Cruz.
Patricio and Sirley: from Argentina, met while CouchSurfing with Alejandro in Santa Cruz.
- Marco and Kenia: from Italy and Bolivia, they kindly picked us up while we were walking to an attraction in Samaipata and hung out with them for a while.
Linda: from the Netherlands, met in Samaipata while waiting for our Sucre bus and hung out together.
Sergi and Katerina: from Spain and Greece, spent a few fun days together in our group tour in Uyuni.
Lennon and Veronica: from Brazil, spent a few fun days together in our group tour in Uyuni.
Arnulfo and Flora: from Bolivia, Aldo’s parents we met in Tarija, who treated us like family.
Animals Viewed
Llamas
VicuƱa
Flamingos
Fox
Common Sayings
Trufi = Minibus
Flota = Long Distance Buses
Surtidor = Gas Station
Movilidad = Cars
Chaqui = Hangover
