Best of Uruguay
We visit Uruguay for 13 days since January 6, 2015, traveling 1.5 hour by ferry from Buenos Aires into Colonia, and a total of 15.5 hours by bus making stops in Colonia, Juan Lacaze, Montevideo, Treinta y Tres, Tacuarembo, and Paysandu. Since we visited the country during the summer time we decided to avoid the expensive beaches, busy with mostly Argentinian and Brazilian tourists. We are sure we missed out on a beautiful coast, but we do not regret it completely since we were able to experience Uruguayan life closer and more genuinely as it takes place in different towns in the interior of the country.
Uruguay is known as the smallest Spanish speaking country in South America, but its territory of 186,000 km2 (71,800 miles2) could actually contain the nations of Switzerland, Holland, Luxembourg, Belgium, Albania, and Denmark all together. “Smallest” is definitely a relative characteristic to probably the most progressive country in Latin America where abortion, same sex marriage, and personal consumption of marijuana is legal. Health care and education are also free and the cost of living is the highest in South America. This nation of green valleys is inhabited by about 11 million cows, 8 million sheep, and 3 million people. Seeing the gauchos wearing traditional hats, boots, and clothes showed us the strong “cowboy” culture of this country, where their jobs of hunting wild cows is a thing of the past and now they raise them to produce the country’s main product of export, meat. Drinking mate is another essential part of Uruguayan culture. Individuals, couples, and group of friends carry thermals with hot water and drink mate together everywhere and at any time of the day. Even during the hot days of the summer, Uruguayans are always in the mood for sharing some mate. Deep inside, it is not even about the mate but about sharing this precious ritual. Despite the trees to produce mate do not grow in their territory, Uruguay is the biggest consumer of mate in the world and the plant has to be imported from Brazil.
We were told that the massive plantation of soy in Brazil promoted by Chinese demands is reducing the lands destined to grow trees of mate and as a consequence the cost of the plant is going up. Drinking mate is an indigenous tradition that new settlers adopted incorporating a bombilla, a straw with a filter in one end used to sip the hot drink. In Uruguay, we also enjoyed the amazing rhythms of Candombe in Montevideo, the Afro-Uruguayan music played with three different drums: chico, repique, and piano. Although in this country only about 4% of the population are direct African descendants, in times of Carnival many Uruguayans dance and perform to their music connecting with their African heritage.
Our first visit in Uruguay was in the city of Colonia, a strategic town by the river of La Plata founded by the Portuguese. This walled city became the focus of disputes between Portuguese, Spanish, British, and French because it is a perfect location for a port to navigate through the inside of South America to extract gold and silver from Bolivia and Peru. La Plata River was initially called the sweet ocean due to its immensity and lack of salinity. Through the years of colonization and European exploitation of the continent, the bottom of the river became full of sunken ships, and inherited its name: La Plata River (River of Silver). The natives of the area were the Charruas and were exterminated by the European colonizers. Staying in Juan Lacaze, a small town next to Colonia, we bathed ourselves in the calm waters of this river that is tainted by history. In Montevideo, Sal found himself in heaven when we visited the Port Market: grilled meats and beers everywhere! What else could he ask for?
In the Uruguayan capital, a city with much less immigrants than Buenos Aires, we were pleased to see a big group of Indian/Pakistani men playing cricket by the Rambla Mahatma Gandhi (beach promenade) on a Sunday. In Tacuarembo, we visited Valle Eden and the museum of Carlos Gardel where an exhibition of legal documents proves that the famous singer and actor was born in Tacuarembo, Uruguay. During our days in Uruguay, we also visited different museums related to history and culture, and we were particularly intrigued to read about some fossils discovered in Arroyo del Vizcaino (Vizcaino Creek) in March 2011 by a paleontology group directed by Dr. Richard Fariña. This group of scientists stated that these fossils dating 30,000 years ago have marks made by human hunting tools. If the hypothesis regarding these fossils is proven, it will imply that humans were living in the American continent much longer than we had believed. Until now, the most accepted scientific theories established that humans migrated into the Americas about 15,000 years ago from Siberia through the Bering Strait and from the Pacific Islands via boats. Interesting right? Can’t wait to find out!
Everywhere we went, we had the pleasure to meet kind, social, humble, and talkative Uruguayans. The lifestyle and values of their people seem strongly connected to agriculture and nature. They always seem down to earth, unpretentious, proud, and attached to their culture. Their president Jose Mujica, who is admired and respected by so many people around the world, is without a doubt a great representative of what Uruguayans strive for. We sent some emails to the president’s office with the hope of having the opportunity to meet Jose Mujica in person and learn more about him, but unfortunately we did not receive a reply. Regardless of not having a chance to shake hands with “Pepe,” how most Uruguayans call him, we admire his resiliency, honesty, and leadership. We consider him a role model of hope and peace for many other nations in the process of overcoming a history of violence and think of him as “the Mandela of Latin America.” Jose Alberto Mujica Cordano was born in Montevideo on May 20, 1935. During the seventies, the times of military dictatorship in Uruguay, Mujica became an active member of the Movement of National Liberation – Tupamaros, a guerrilla group that fought against the military regime. During his years in the guerrilla, Jose Mujica was wounded and arrested 4 times. He spent a total of 15 years of his life in prison, the longest period being 11 consecutive years since 1972. During the years Mujica spent in jail he was constantly maintained in asylum and was victim of multiple forms of physical and psychological abuse. Jose Mujica was one of the hostages that the military dictatorship kept with a threat of execution if the Tupamaros acted against their regime. Mujica only recovered his freedom in March 8, 1985 after democracy was reestablished in Uruguay and then his formal path in politics began. During his performance in different positions in the government, Mujica has always been characterized by his honesty and loyalty to his principals. No torture or power has been strong enough to corrupt his heart and ideals. As president of Uruguay since 2009, he resigned to live under the roof of the luxurious Presidents House. Instead, he opted to stay in his “chacra”, a small and humbled farm house with his wife Lucía Topolansky, who is a senator, and their dog with tree legs, Manuela. Mujica donates about 80% of his salary to humanitarian organizations and his wise choices have given him the not too accurate nickname of “the poorest president in the world.” The truth is that Jose Mujica is one of a kind. His capacity to rebound from the horrors of war and to become a leader of peace inspired us. Pepe Mujica’s story is without question a tale that should be followed and the greatest example we could give you of how wonderful Uruguayans can be!
We felt happy, peaceful, welcomed, and at home in Uruguay. We left behind wonderful friends and take with us the greatest desire of wanting to return to them one day. 🙂
Below are other great things we enjoyed about Uruguay:
Food and Drinks
Chivito al Pan: egg, ham, beef, and cheese sandwich
Pilsen Beer
Dulce de Leche: similar to caramel
Baby Beef: type of meat cut
Chinchulin: cow intestine
Sweet Morcilla: pork blood sausage
Patricia Beer
Pancho: hot dog
Milanesa: Breaded Pork Sandwich
Torta Frita: fried bread
Dulce de Leche Torta: fried bread with caramel
Alfajores: cookies with caramel covered with chocolate
Favorite Sights and Activities
Sparking a Conversation and Having Mate with Random People throughout the Country
Enjoying an All-Beef Parrillada Lunch in Mercado del Puerto, Montevideo
Watching and Listening the Intensity of the Samba Rehearsal in Parque Rodo as Montevideo Prepared for Carnaval
People
Mitchell and his daughter (Ayelen): from Uruguay, our CouchSurfing hosts in Juan Lacaze.
Gonzalo and Yasmin: from Argentina, met while CouchSurfing with Mitchell.
Martin: from Uruguay, met when he picked us up while hitchhiking to Treinta y Tres.
Patricia: from Uruguay, restaurant owner in Treinta y Tres.
Maria del Carmen: from Uruguay, our CouchSurfing host in Tacuarembo.
Damian and Delfina: from Uruguay, Damian is Maria del Carmen’s nephew.
Aldana: from Argentina, she was also CouchSurfing at Maria del Carmen’s house.
Mabel: from Uruguay, Maria del Carmen’s friend that owned a farm and business in Valle Eden.
Clever: from Uruguay, Mabel’s friend who was working with her in the farm.
Mario, Cristina, Matu, and Federico: from Uruguay, our CouchSurfing hosts in Paysandu that took us in as part of the family.
Animals Viewed
Horses
Cows
Sheep
Common Sayings
Licencia = Vacation
Anana = Pineapple
Mamadera = Baby Bottle
Chacra = Farm
Omnibus = Bus
Frutilla = Strawberry
Minuta = Fast Food
Ta = Okay
Guerises/as = Guys/Girls
Mamado = Drunk